What are AHAs and BHAs?

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are both chemical exfoliants. A chemical exfoliant relies on different types of acids to breakdown the most superficial layer of skin, causing dead skin cells to detach and shed. One is not superior to the other, rather they are used to treat different concerns.

• Alpha-hydroxy acids: AHAs are water-soluble and can be found in sugar, milk, citrus fruits or synthetic formulations. The most commonly used forms of AHAs are lactic acid, glycolic acid and mandelic acide.
• Beta-Hydroxy Acids: BHAs are lipid or oil soluble. They are closely related to AHAs as they are separated in their configuration by a single carbon atom. The most used form of BHA is salicylic acid.

Why are they good for the skin?

AHA's and BHA's exfoliating remove the top layer of cells on the skin to reveal the newer, younger cells below. Products that include AHAs and BHAs work to:

• Help brighten dull complexions.
• Help to reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone.
• Help to visibly diminish the signs of aging, by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Promote a more radiant look.

Which one to choose?

• AHA

The most used AHAs are lactic acid, glycolic acid and mandelic acid:

• BHA

The most used form of BHA is salicylic acid. The percentage of salicylic acid is 2% for an over-the-counter product. BHAs are milder than AHAs, yet still effective when used alone, especially on sensitive skin. However, BHAs tend to be more drying than AHAs and can cause skin irritation in some individuals.

Their affinity for oil makes them especially valuable in treating oily skin, as well as those with mild to moderately severe facial acne. With their keratolytic properties, they can dissolve the skin around acne lesions, thus reducing sebaceous follicle blockage by stimulating the release of keratin, oil, dirt and debris. This action eventually minimizes the production of blemishes, blackheads and whiteheads. They are also antimicrobial and work to kill or inhibit the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria, which is especially beneficial in the treatment and prevention of acne.

Dark coloured skin is at a higher risk of scarring and pigment changes with BHAs than light skin colour.

BHAs can increase sun sensitivity by 50 percent, making it necessary to use a good broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher.

Can I use AHA and BHA simultaneously?

Yes, since they treat different concerns, many formulations contain a pre-dosed combination of AHAs and BHAs to increase their effectiveness for various skin types and conditions. You can also alternate between AHA and BHA products.

Change of seasons is an excellent time to undertake a series of AHA/BHA treatments. However, no matter when you are using them, an SPF must be applied daily to protect the skin from increased sun damage.

G.M. Collin's AHA and BHA home care products

G.M. Collin Chemical Peels available in spas

G.M. Collin offers a variety of professional chemical peels designed to:

Chemical peels should be performed in a series and with appropriate accompanying home care products, for the best results.

It is important to know both the pH of a product as well as its concentrations of AHAs and BHAs. A pH of 3.0 is the lowest allowed for aestheticians to use with a concentration of 30 % AHA and BHA. It is also imperative to know if the acids in the product have been neutralized, in which case they are used solely for hydrating the skin, or if they are buffered, as their action will also be diminished. It is possible to have an AHA product that states it contains 45% acids. However, 15% of these acids could be neutralized and provide only hydration, while 30% are actually exfoliating.